Studies in North East India: Assamese Textiles

The book is an outcome of a historical and analytical study of the Assamese Textiles. No important aspect of the subject has been left out in this highly methodical study to find out and uphold the artistic qualities of the Assamese textiles and the aesthetic values that is contained. Gandhiji’s observation that the Assamese women can weave the dreams in the looms can be tasted through the pages of the book that contains coloured pictures along with the text. Important stages like the preparing of cotton fibres and rearing of silk worms for making thread, the weaving materials, 

reeling and weaving methods, processing of colours to be used, creation of designs and motifs, the influence of nature, traditional beliefs and culture, literary evidences about the high qualities of the Assamese textiles, wears of different size, shape and colour according to the socio- cultural state and status points are discussed methodically. – all these A brief introduction to the distinctive features of the textiles of the tribal communities of Assam is also included. To know about Assamese textiles this work offers a clear view and the most dependable information. The work is an addition to the study of Indian textiles in general and Assamese textiles in particular.

 THE AUTHOR

MANDIRA BARTHAKUR SAIKIA (b. 1967) presently a lecturer of Home Science in the MDK Girls’ College, Dibrugarh, Assam, did her M.Sc. in Home Science with specialization in clothing and textiles from the Assam Agricultural University, and did her Ph.D. from the Dibrugarh University on ‘Studies in North-east India-Study on Assamese Textiles’. Prior to her present job, Dr. Barthakur Saikia worked as an Instructress of AWTC under ICCW and she participated in a number of seminars, workshops, and Training Programmes of NIPCCD and ICCW, including 3rd NORAD (Norwegian Agency for International Development) workshop held at Patna. During her service period she had the opportunity of visiting rural areas of Assam extensively, and she could gather first hand knowledge of the Assamese looms and all about the materials the Assamese women weavers use, the beautiful designs and motifs that they create very much artistically, their craftsmanship and the aesthetic value of their works.

Her own experiences of weaving also provoked Dr. Mandira Barthakur Saikia to study the subject in its socio-historical perspective with a keen analytical eye on every aspect to uphold the salient features and distinctions of the Assamese textiles.

Dr. Mandira Barthakur Saikia also authored the book ‘Matri aru Navajatak’ and a number of research and popular articles on textiles, doll making, nutrition, dress and designs, status of women etc. published in various magazines and journals of Assam.

PREFACE

This book is an outcome of a historical and analytical study of the Assamese textiles done by the author. The study of the Assamese textile is a part of the study of Assamese culture. This chapter of Assamese culture is related to China and South-East Asia also, especially in regard to the weaving materials and skill. The study reveals that the aesthetic imagination, artistic craftsmanship and creative faculty of the Assamese weavers to create various traditional motifs and designs are very much related to the folk mind and their skill.

The study is an attempt to find out the uniqueness and their values in a methodical way. The artistic craftsmanship and aesthetic values are very much related to the mental and imaginative faculties of the weavers, and hence are very much abstract in nature. Therefore, the folk mind and the motifs are made an easy way to the study. The sense of beauty itself is a state of mind. Therefore, behind the creation of motif and designs, the sense of beauty along with some ideas behind, works as the inspiring agent in the minds of the weavers. An attempt is made in this study to identify the agent and the result of its involvement in the process of using colours and weaving motifs and designs.

The nature of the study is historical and analytical as well. No important aspect related to the Assamese textiles has been left out but emphasis is given to find out the artistic qualities of the craftsmanship and the aesthetic values. Therefore, after the general introduction to the study, Assmese textile as referred to in literature is discussed. It is followed by the classification; historical growth of the sizes and shapes of the different types of wears. Then the study of the weaving materials and methods are discussed and then the study of preparing and using colours is incorporated. This aspect is followed by the study of designs and ornamentations. Motifs and designs and the influence of nature and traditional beliefs on the designs, ornamentations and motifs. The designs and craftsmanship. and the aesthetic view-points are discussed with care to come to the conclusion. Before arriving at the conclusion a brief introduction to the distinctive features of the textiles of the tribal peoples around, is also included to help in identifying the characteristics of the colour, designs and motifs of the Assamese textiles.

The present book deals with only non-tribal plains Assamese textiles. It also reveals distinction of their sense of beauty and gratefulness, their sense of nobility and granduear in their work with a brief comparision of the Assamese textile designs, motifs and colour, with tribal designs. From this methodical study it could be concluded that the Assamese textile reflects elongantly the aesthetic sense of the Assamese folk mind closely related to the rich cultural traditions of Assam and to the rich natural beauty beaming around.

A sufficient number of sketches and photographs are also incorporated so that the artistic craftsmanship and the aesthetic quality of the Assamese textiles can be visualized even within the limited scope.

The study itself is a combination of the technical aspects of the Assamese textiles and the abstract aesthetic properties of it. All efforts are being made to make it as much as it could be made scientific, objective and data based in the general background of the subject.

It is to be noted here that I am using the international phonetic signs to indicate the pronounciation of the Assamese words.

I am using comments and observations of many writers for which I will remain grateful to them. I am also thankful to the authorities of the many Libraries for providing me with facilities to use their libraries and to many organizations for providing valuable informations and photographs.

I express my deep sense of gratitude to my father-in-law Dr. Nagen Saikia for his continous help and encouragement that he gave during the course of my invastigation and also to Dr. Karabi Deka Hazarika, for liberal help and untiring supervision render though the period of my investigation.

I am also thankful to Dr. L. Mazumdar, Dr. D. Khanikar, Shri. A.C. Barouah, Shri N.K. Seal for their kind help and valuable suggestions.

I owe indebtness weavers of the weaving units with whom I interected, for their sincere co-operations during my study.

I extend my heartierst thanks and regards to my mother- in-law Smt. Lavanya Saikia, my husband Gautam Saikia, my daughters Ritaza and Shravasti for help, inspiration, co- operation and support through the period of my study.

My thanks goes to Shri Debakrishna Barua for drawing the sketches as per my need and to Shri Deepak Boruah and Kaustubhmoni Hazarika for the help and co-operation extended to me in a number of ways at different phases of the study.

Special thanks goes to Krishan Mittal, owner of Mittal Publications, New Delhi for coming forward to publish this work of mine in book-form. I hope, inspite its humbleness, my work will be able to give a clean idea in a methodical way about the artistic craftsmanship and aesthetic value of the Assamese Textiles.

MANDIRA BARTHAKUR SAIKIA

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